Enkosi (Thank you!)

It’s hard to believe it has only been a week since I left Cape Town. As I sat down to write this blog, I found myself at a loss of words. I am clueless as to go about explaining the rush of emotions I have experienced upon my re entrance to the states. There have been moments of elation and joy accompanied by times of frustration and despair.  But throughout the whirlwind of emotions, I have experienced a persistent feeling of gratitude; gratitude for the people I’ve met, the places I have traveled to, the things I have done, but most importantly the lessons I have learned. I have been taught to appreciate instability in life, for that is what brings us the most profound transformations. South Africa also taught me the value of simplicity, flexibility, passion, and correct attitude. And I could never express an adequate appreciation to all those whom guided, supported and taught me over the last few months.

I left for South Africa with the hope of being pushed outside my comfort zone- I wanted to be fundamentally transformed by the language, the culture and by the diversity. With pride, I can say that I have indeed evolved.

There is something about living abroad that ignites within you a childlike outlook on your surroundings. I was in a constant state of awe and appreciation and I pray that I am able to maintain that sense of wonder in my life back home in Milwaukee. As each day presents new opportunities, I will strive to learn form them with equal conviction as I have done in South Africa.

Mzoli's

To celebrate our last Sunday in Cape Town, my roommates and I went to Mzoli's market in the Guguletu Township. When visiting Mzoli's, your first stop is at the butcher shop to pick out your meat (being vegetarian, I brought a PB & J sandwich, but regardless, the experience is worth it). They then pass you your 'bucket of meat' which you then take to the braai room. While you wait for your meat to cook, you can enjoy music and dance in their patio area. 

Mzoli's is a unique atmosphere in that it brings together so many different worlds. Generally speaking, it is extremely unlikely for white individuals to be found roaming around the townships. However, Mzoli's offers an exception to the rule and is both welcoming and affirming of diversity. 

Since we were already in Guguletu, my roommate Christine and I decided to walk a few blocks to her service site, a nearby primary school. I had been informed that the area surrounding Mzoli's can be somewhat dangerous if you are not careful. However my curiosity to see more of the township, as well as where my roommate had dedicated so much of her time abroad, got the best of me. 

When we reached Christine's school we were greeted by some of the children that had been playing in the field. The youngest ones, who did not speak English, came running over to me with arms outstretched shouting out "Amy Biehl Foundation," which is the outreach program that Christine worked for. This foundation recruits volunteers, many of whom are white individuals, to do youth outreach within the schools in the townships. It was amazing to me that this young girl had assumed that I was part of the Amy Biehl Foundation, likely because that is the only time she sees white women in her township. This is an example of the segregation that is prevalent throughout the city. It seems as though there are imaginary borders that certain individuals either refuse to, or are prohibited, to pass. Cape Town needs more people like Amy Biehl who are willing to surpass those borders (read more about Amy's life and legacy here: http://www.myhero.com/go/hero.asp?hero=a_biehl).

Goodbye Braai

On Saturday, the Kimberly House hosted a "Goodbye Braai" to which we invited EVERYONE who had played an influential role during our semester in South Africa. In preparation for the event, the roommates were busy cooking and cleaning all day. And I can honestly say that I don't think I have ever seen the house as clean as it was that day. Even the dishes were done, which is quite a rarity in a house of 21 college students. 

The night was enjoyed by all and I am so thankful to all those who were able to attend. We have been so blessed to have had the support of such amazing people and they will always have a special spot in my heart. 

In celebration of a successful evening, a few of my housemates and I went to our favorite Mexican restaurant for a margarita (favorite is a relative term considering its Mexican food is a country that has a very minuscule Mexican population). Apparently a full day of cooking and cleaning was a lot for me to handle seeing as I fell asleep face down on the table. At least my roommates woke me up before they left! 

Ubuntu in the Home

Within the last month, my volunteer work at SAFFI has taken a unique and exciting turn. SAFFI has recently partnered with the Desmond & Leah Tutu Legacy Foundation and has also secured a grant from Swedish donors. These events have allowed SAFFI the opportunity to implement an outreach program entitled “Ubtuntu in the Home: Ubuntu in Intimate Relationships.”

Ubuntu is an African philosophy that is translated as “I am what I am because of who we all are.” It explains that because our humanity is inextricably bound up with that of one another, you cannot be human all by yourself. We are all interconnected and what you do, affects the rest of the world. “When you do well, it spreads out; it is for the whole of humanity.”

The point of this project is to sensitize and educate religious leaders regrading the root causes, implications, and consequences of domestic violence. By getting religious leaders on board, we are hoping to establish support services within these religious communities. For far too long, silence has surrounded the issue of gender based violence. This program will hold abusers accountable for their actions while offering interventions, support, and information to all those affected by intimate partner violence.

This past week, SAFFI and the Legacy Foundation have hosted a training workshop for a group of 10 facilitators. Starting in July, these facilitators will take their acquired skills out into the religious communities. By the end of the yearlong project, we hope to have secured commitments from 20 religious leaders, pledging their dedication to this cause and implementing support systems in their congregations.

Although it will be hard for me to leave SAFFI at such a pivotal moment, I have also appreciated the opportunity to see all the hard work that has led up to this moment. I am both excited and hopeful for the future of this organization. 

Khayelitsha

With it being right in the middle of our finals month, here at the Kimberly House, tensions have been running a bit high. By the time the end of the week rolled around, everyone was in dire need of a break from the unending study sessions, group work and late night paper writing. Patrick, the caretaker at the Kimberly House, invited us all over for a braai at his home in Khayelitsha, the largest township in Cape Town.

Patrick's English is a bit hard to understand; and honestly, half the time I don't even know if he is speaking Xhosa or English (the other half of the time I am pretty sure he isn't speaking either, but rather chatting away in some incoherent tongue). That being said, when Patrick extended the invitation to spend a Saturday afternoon in his community, the only detail we actually comprehended was that we were to be picked up at 11am that upcoming Saturday.  

After being picked up, we first found ourselves not at Patrick’s house, but at a nearby community center. Here some of the youth performed traditional African dance accompanied by singing and drumming. After this wonderful performance we proceeded to travel to Patrick’s house, by means of a parade nonetheless. Once in Patrick’s neighborhood, the dancing continued while the food was prepared. Everyone joined in on the dance- men and women, young and old, white and black. What we had thought was going to be a simple meal with Patrick’s immediate family, turned out to be an entire community event. I spent the day teaching the children Spanish and English while they tried to teach me Xhosa; I had my hair styled my hair at least 5 different times by 10 different children; I attempted to learn African dance; and gave more piggy back rides than I can count. 

Although this community lacked the material assets that many westerners are accustomed to, I saw the pride on each of their faces as they watched their children dance. The rhythm and music served as a unifying force; it surpassed language barriers and overcame racial, cultural, ethnic and religious divisions. We were united in a day of celebration- and by the end of the day, the passion, life, and light that emanated from this community was overwhelming and inspirational.

As our van pulled out of the neighborhood at the end of the day, there were nearly 40 children chasing along side us; waving and reaching for final high fives through the van’s windows.

The 3 Peak Challenge

This past weekend, 11 of my roommates and I embarked on The 3 Peak Challenge; a challenge to climb Devils Peak, Table Mountain and Lions head all in one day’s time. We left the house at 5:15 am and had reached the top of the first mountain, Devil’s Peak, by 7:30am- just in time for sunrise (which we couldn’t watch considering we were amidst the clouds). Although we completed the first leg of the hike in pitch-black darkness, I managed to fall only once…and there wasn’t even that much blood!

After a “graceful” descent down Devil’s peak, we began the climb up the highest of the three mountains. Setting a personal record in a time of 1 hour and 30 minutes, we were at the top of Table Mountain by noon. Despite the 5 layers of clothing I had packed, I was still caught off guard by the frigid temperatures at the top of the mountain. After quickly snapping a picture to prove our achievement, we quickly began our descent, eager for warmer temperatures back at sea level.

By the time we began to climb Lion’s Head, my quads were on fire. Trust me…Division I Varsity Athletics training does nothing to prepare you for this challenge. Don’t ask me how, but an hour later, I found myself perched at the highest point of Lion’s Head looking out over downtown Cape Town and the Atlantic Ocean.

Our total hiking time was 10 hours and 40 minutes and my self-esteem was soaring. That is, until the cab driver (no, I was NOT about to walk my butt home) informed us that just a few months ago, a man completed the challenge in less than 5 hours... Yea, uh maybe next time?

Peak #1: Devil's Peak (3,281 ft. elevation)

Peak #2: Table Mountain (3,558 ft. elevation)

Peak #3: Lion's Head (2,195 ft. elevation)

Visitors

This past Sunday, my mother and grandmother (aka ‘Bucca’) came to visit me here in Cape Town. My mom received a proper greeting by being pooped on by a South African pigeon, which is indeed good luck, seeing as Bucca’s lost suitcase safely arrived at the hotel later on that evening.

We began our excursions on Monday with a tour of the Robben Island prison where, in addition to getting a great historical lesson, Bucca and mom learned a lesson in South African bus etiquette; regardless of how full a bus might be, there is always room for another body (they still haven’t seen the half of it).

The following day, we awoke early for a tour of my house in Observatory before proceeding onto Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. It was here that we began the Skeleton Gorge trail, which leads up Table Mountain…and two minutes later, we had already stopped for our first water break (which we continued to do every 20 steps or so).  After hours of hiking, we finally caught sight of the top of the mountain. Sadly, me being the airhead I am, I somehow lost the trail path and despite having climbed up rocks, waterfalls and ladders for nearly 2 hours, we were forced to turn around just shy of the peak of the mountain. Whoops…

Our next adventure took place on Wednesday with a 4:45 am pick up time for a shark cage diving adventure in Hermanus, South Africa. Despite my attempts to convince her otherwise, Bucca was the self-appointed sidelined photographer while my mother and I struggled into our wetsuits in preparation for the dive. After nearly 30mins of diving, mom had quite the adrenaline rush when a 16 foot shark, in attempt to eat a fish which happened to be floating in front of her face, swam full speed directly into the cage, jaws wide open and all. And those teeth are just as big as they are in the movies, FYI. Needless to say, that was the end of our diving for the day. (I would also like to note Bucca’s fascination with seaweed. However, her actual remark while referring to the seaweed was “Wow, look at all those birds! What kind of birds are those, do you suppose?”)

As if I hadn’t tired them out enough already, the three of us spent the morning at the Lotus Park cresh (preschool). With 120 children squeezed into a classroom comprised of 2 train cars, it was beyond hectic to say the least. But Bucca did manage to learn some great new dance moves from the 3-year-old girls, which I am sure will be making a debut in Minocqua this year.

Despite having done so much already, mom and Bucca still have 5 days left in Cape Town. Hopefully we have all the bird accidents and shark attacks out of the way. 

Meeting Desmond Tutu

"Do your little bit of good where you are; its those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world." - Archbishop Desmond Tutu

Desmond Tutu is a former Anglican bishop from South Africa who gained world wide recognition for his leading efforts during the Truth and Reconciliation Commission following the demise of the apartheid system. The TRC was a restorative justice program with an emphasis on reconciliation which gave thousands of victims and perpetrators an opportunity to share their truth. The process of the South African TRC was world renowned, having been studied and imitated by numerous countries across the globe. In addition to his contribution to the TRC, Tutu has been a prominent human rights activist, participating in campaigns against poverty, AIDS, racism, sexism, homophobia, etc. As a result of his tireless efforts, he has been the recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize in addition to many other awards and recognitions. 

So when I received an email at 9pm saying that we would be attending a mass led by Desmond Tutu that next morning at 6am, I couldn't be more excited and overwhelmed. The following day we groggily made our way to St. Georges Cathedral in the city center, and having fallen asleep during the car ride there, I desperately compiled strategies to keep myself awake for the service. I could just picture it; here is the amazing opportunity to attend a mass led by one of the world's leading figures in the implementation of reconciliation and forgiveness, and there's Jessa…snoozing away in the pew. 

Luckily, however, Tutu's service was filled with energy and laughter which kept me fully engaged (and wide awake). As the mass began, I couldn't help but take note of his stature; he was an incredibly short man with eyes that bugged out of his head in every direction. It wasn't long before I understood exactly what Nelson Mandela meant when he described Tutu as  "sometimes strident, often tender, never afraid, and seldom without humor." Entertainingly, that sense of humor was accompanied by a crazed hyena-sounding laugh that was absolutely contagious. I don't think I have laughed that hard in church since my grade-school days. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHUjnWVsYc0&feature=related

(Hopefully this short youtube video will give you a better understanding of that hyena laugh). 

The South African Faith and Family Institute

Throughout my semester in Cape Town, I have been volunteering 2 full days per week at the South African Faith and Family Institute (SAFFI). Founded in 2010, SAFFI works to link diverse sectors of society in an effort to devise collaborative solutions to help eliminate gender-based violence. Studies have shown that although South African women live in one of the most religious societies in the world, they also live in one of the most dangerous societies as well. This can be attributed to the rigid traditional patriarchal system that is often implemented throughout South African Townships.

In addition to being assigned the unfortunate title of ‘rape capital of the world,’ South Africa is facing increasing incidents of hate crimes, domestic abuse, and sexual assaults.  In an effort to counteract this phenomenon, SAFFI works to facilitate relationships between Non Governmental Organizations, Governmental Organizations and Religious Leaders to offer victims and those affected by gender-based violence with the most holistic intervention strategy possible.

My roles at SAFFI include co-facilitating discussions and conferences concerning the issue of gender-based violence activism and prevention, conducting research regarding holistic interventions, and composing articles regarding SAFFI’s recent efforts for local newsprint. My most recent project included coordinating a women’s pilgrimage on Robben Island, which offered a day of reflection and conversation inspired by sites of significance on the island.

This has been a unique service experience for me considering in past volunteer experiences, I have only worked directly with clients. In this new setting, I am able to work collaboratively with different organizations, allowing me to see all the different hats a NGO worker has to wear.  From influencing government policy and fundraising efforts to auditing reports and establishing inter-organization partnerships, my time at SAFFI has been both enlightening and slightly overwhelming.

If you are interested in learning more about SAFFI, visit our website at www.saffi.org.za

Easter Break in Namibia

This year, my Easter Holiday was celebrated in an unconventional manner. Instead of the usual church attendance, egg hunt and family brunch; I spent the 5-day weekend in Namibia on a rafting trip down the Orange River.

We left early Friday morning, driving nearly 9 hours to the Namibia/South Africa border. From there, our base camp was just a short 45 min drive away.  We spent the evening swimming in the river and preparing our boats for the rafting trip that would commence at sunrise the following morning.  The first hour of the trip was quite discouraging. Our 2-person raft clearly had a mind of its own and we spent about 5 km zigzagging down the river until we finally ‘mastered’ our paddling/steering abilities.  Regardless of our efforts, I’m pretty sure our guide considered us to be the ‘circus boat’ for the rest of the trip.

Each morning, we awoke at sunrise for a quick breakfast before getting back on the river.  Throughout the course of the day, we would have paddled 6-8 hours interrupted only by a short break for lunch along the riverbanks. In the evening, we set up camp alongside the river and spend the night sleeping beneath the stars. Lacking any type of city light pollution made for a breathtaking view of the nighttime sky.

The less glamorous side of the trip included the use of ‘jungle bathrooms’ (as our guide called it), finding scorpions in our clothes, and a stampede of wild cows raiding our campsite. In addition, I have discovered that my driving abilities in a boat are just as bad as they are on the road. Now, I have gotten into an accident with a rock in both a car and a boat! Check that off the bucket list J

Other than that, the trip went quite smoothly. Thankfully, we all made it home safely and not too waterlogged. All in all, this was an Easter holiday that I know I will never forget.